Posts tagged Cycle touring

Motu Cycle Trails

Dunes Trail: 8^th August

We began the Dunes Ride mid-afternoon as the weather all day was grey and miserable, so it was hard getting motivated to begin.   Once we got energised and kitted up to ride, it was easy as we were camped right near the 3km marker.

The Dunes Trail is a delight, never far from the energizing presence of the sea, gently undulating up and down with the dunes.  It has a great surface and is well engineered for riding at a reasonable speed, except that there are squeezes where the Trail crosses roads, to keep motorbikes off the Trail.  With the recent wild and windy weather, the sea’s roaring was a constant reminder as the markers rolled by.

The Dunes Trail encountered some construction challenges as it went a culturally important site, has shifting dunes and water courses and was prone to storm damage.  A partnership between the Department of Conservation,  Optotiki and Gisborne Councils and Te Whakatohea Maori Trust Board working together, with Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment as the funding partner was needed to solve these challenges.  

The sandy section in the middle was even more challenging as it traversed  sensitive and sacred areas so that Kaumatua (trival elders) were involved to ensure that these were managed appropriately.  The sense of the cultural significance of the area we were riding through was strong. The po on the right represents Ngatorohaka who was a chief who lived in a pa above the nearby bluff.  There is another po named Tamaariki which is named after the taniwha in the Tirohanga Stream.  Tamaariki had been a Maori chief before he “turned” into a taniwha.

The physical challenges of the shifting dunes and water courses also provided challenges.  A “floating” boardwalk was designed to sit on top of and move with the sand.  Working with nature meant trail designers had to modify their designs along the way.  And this section of the Trail needs constant monitoring and maintenance.  As we rode by, the sea which was running high was very close to the Trail. 

We rode right to the end of the Trail, exploring possible options for where to park Bella the next day while we rode the Motu Road Trail.  The return journey was complicated by riding directly towards the setting sun, which made it hard to see which way the Trail turned sometimes.  We rode straight on past Bella to the beginning of the Trail which starts with an impressive suspension bridge. 

The Pakowhai ki Otutaopuku Bridge, opened in March 2012, connects cyclists and walkers to the Motu Trails and the Pacific Ocean across the Otara River.  Maori settled in this area in the 1400s when the Pakihikura canoe landed here; it was named O-Potiki-Mai-Tawhaiti (Of the Children from Afar), now shortened to Opotiki in the 1800s. 

We had a little grocery shopping to undertake in Opotiki and took the opportunity to admire the graceful buildings in town. Then we rocketed back to Bella through the gloaming for another cosy night listening to the roar of the sea. 

The Motu Road Trail: 9^th August

Gwen from the Motu Trails company was there in good time for our 9.00 am pick up at the Freedom Camping site and we were off on the 1 hour drive to Matawai and further on to the Motu Falls where we had requested a drop off.  The Falls proved to be right by the road, with a swing bridge for easy viewing.  They  were spectacular after the recent heavy rain, thundering over the drop and foaming. 

Our route lay back along the road to the tiny village of Motu, which featured a school and a café which was closed.  There were some interesting interpretation boards telling of the history of Motu and the opening up of the road through from Opotiki to Gisborne.  The farmland around us was very attractive as we began our ascent of the first hill. 

The Taumarakaretu Hill provided an invigorating start to the day with good solid climb up a gravel road, with a very variable surface.  Ross was well ahead, powered by his e-bike, but I was able to ride the whole way at a speed of about 7-8 km, no matter how rough the surface was.   We had to concentrate hard on the riding as the surface was often soft and soggy because of the recent rain.  Or large pieces of stone which made our bikes slide in an unexpected fashion.   Not to mention a ford, which was quite deep after the rain.  Ross managed to ride right through it, but I stalled in the deep bit and got wet feet! 

Although we were on a public road, it felt very isolated.  At Motu we saw some kids on bicycles, and two farmers on quad bikes.   Through the rest of the day we encountered a digger driver and two truck drivers working on an exceptionally bad patch of the road and a local who was startled to see us. 

The bush around us was spectacular, with some tall trees amidst the verdant growth.  The scenery before us was a spread of steep hills all around us, with no visible signs of human intervention, apart from the road we were cycling on.   There were several climbs and then a long downhill which offered this wonderful vista of the valley below, with the river snaking along it. 

After the long downhill, there was an on-road section through more farmland.  The final piece of the ride back to Bella was a reprisal of the previous day, riding along the Dunes Trail as the sun set.  A satisfying conclusion to a long day’s riding in beautiful remote forest. 

Riding the Hauraki Rail Trail

The Hauraki Rail Trail is described as the easiest of the 22 NZ Cycle Trails, because it is mainly across the flat as a pancake Hauraki Plains, and the trails are wide off-road, mostly gravel surfaced with excellent signage.  The only complication comes from the occasional haphazard measurement of distances.

The Trail has a hub and spoke arrangement with Paeroa at the hub, so there are many ways to cycle the Trail, with and without the assistance of shuttle services to start your day or return you to a vehicle.  We camped at Paeroa, a very campervan friendly town, which is the home-town for the world famous in NZ drink, L&P.  Two days we rode there and back, on the third longer day, we booked a shuttle to start our day and rode back to Bella.

Day 1: Paeroa to Te Aroha and back again, 3 August 2018

On the first day, misty weather made for a slow start.  It was mid-afternoon by the time we were in the saddle so we chose the shortest leg to begin with and set off fast across farmland to the delightful Te Aroha. The domain has a number of charming original Edwardian and Victorian spa buildings, the most original buildings of any spa town in NZ.  However, worried by the fading light, rather than lingering to explore the spa buildings, we rode back even faster than we came, across the flat farmland.  Our ride was enlivened by the occasional bridge or cattle stop, and delayed only by the beauty of the sunset enhanced by the silhouettes of wintry trees..

Day 2: Miranda Shorebird Centre to Paeroa: 4 August 2018

Day 2 got off to an early start with a shuttle transfer, to Miranda on the Firth of Thames where there is a wonderful Shorebird Centre.  The drive north began in mist which gave a wonderful eerie atmosphere to the still water at Miranda where the shorebirds congregate.

2700 wrybills live there, 65% of the world’s total population of wrybills.  They were a delight to watch, as they feed relentlessly, darting their wry bills into the estuary first to the left, then to the right, hopping about energetically.  The stilts and godwits seem positively dignified in contrast to the wrybills, feeding at a much more sedate pace.  

By the time we tore ourselves away from watching birds, and the wonderful book shop in the Bird Centre, it was nearly mid-day.  The ride across the bottom of the Firth of Thames was rather mundane.  Though the first few kilometres provided some excitement from navigating soggy patches caused by the big storm of 5 Jan 2018 (which had caused us csuch difficulty on our summer Coromandel cycling trip). There was a great deal of nothing much to see, although we knew the sea was only a few hundred metres away, it was mostly out of sight.  

As there seemed unlikely to be anything of great interest materializing, we ate lunch by the side of the road, with nothing much in sight and pressed onto Bugger Café, Pipiroa which had been recommended by our shuttle driver.  There were many photographs of bugger moments to entertain and the food and coffee were splendid.

The scenery improved after this, as we rode alongside the Piako River, framed by the hills of the Coromandel.  

At Kopu, where we were thankful to be finally past the half way point, there is an interesting historic bridge with a section which opens to allow ships through, the last remaining in NZ.  

When Captain James Cook arrived in 1779 he sailed right through to Paeroa, which you can’t do any longer as the river is silted since the forest has been cleared and turned into farmland.  At Kopu the track turned inland and heading back south down the Hauraki Plains for another 27 km to Paeroa.  This was similar terrain to the day before – farmland, herds of cows in churned up fields, bridges and cattle stops.

Day 3: Waihi to Paeroa and back again:6 August 2018

After an intervening rainy day where we explored Waihi and shifted Bella (our campervan) to Waihi Beach, the day dawned crisp, clear and sunny after the previous day’s consistent rain. Our plan was to drive to Waihi and ride to Paeroa and back again.  On the recommendation of a friend we had hoped to catch the historic train one way from Waikino to Waihi, but alas the train was off for a fortnight, so riding all the way was our only option.  

We had high expectations of this section of the Trail as a number of people had told us that the ride through the Karangahake Gorge was the absolute highlight of the Hauraki Rail Trail.  Our expectations were met, and then some.  Every aspect of the Trail was an improvement on previous days: the scenery was a dramatic improvement enlivened by being beside the river for most of the day; there were interesting interpretation boards informing us about the industrial history of the areas we were riding through; the trail was a better surface for riding on; the route was much more interesting riding as the terrain offered much more variety.

The first part of the day’s ride, which we began at Waihi Railway Station, was beside a reasonably placid river, with some interesting swoops up and down and tranquil sections beside the fast running river, fringed with wintry trees.  I do love the shape of trees without any leaves, as we only see them in winter.  So architectural in their shapes.  

We zoomed along, enjoying the more interesting scenery that riding beside the river offered compared to the farmland we had spent the previous couple of days amongst.

The section from Waihi to Waikino was not following the railway line, which still exists as a functioning railway.  There were segments of it that we would have sworn were former cuttings from a former railway line, lined with ferns and dripping gently.

At Waikino we headed across the bridge and under that highway to check out the Railway Station Cafe, which had a great reputation.  We judged it well deserved – the café is atmospheric with the main room in the former stationmaster’s office, adorned with historic photos of Waikino in it’s industrial heyday and railway memorabilia and cheered by a bright fire.  The food and coffee were excellent as well.

Next stop was the Owharoa Falls which we had visited the previous day when they were running furious, brown and angry looking.  Now that the rain had stopped, the Falls still had plenty of energy, spraying positive ions around, tumbling energetically towards the river below.

The section between Owharoa Falls and the Karangahake Tunnel was a delight.  Ross particularly enjoyed the track surface, which supported a good fast riding pace, while I enjoyed the forest most of all.  

We stopped awhile at the Karangahake Tunnel to read the information boards about the engineering feat of building the 1086m tunnelcutting which was started in 1900 and finished in November 1905. It was built to help transport mining material and gold in and out of Waihi quickly instead of the old pack horses.   The tunnel is so straight, that it’s no challenge to see the light at the end of the tunnel and torches are not necessary for the downhill ride which requires no effort beyond steering your bike.

The two elegant steel bridges on ether end of the tunnel were built and transported from Christchurch. 

From Karangahake it’s a straightforward run through to Paeroa, passing right by the house of the friendly bike mechanic who advertises his services as 24/7 and was happy to fix Ross’ broken spoke on a Sunday morning.  We ate our lunch in Paeroa, sitting beside the giant L&P bottle, entertained by the visiting groups who came for the classic “I’m in Paeroa” photograph.

On our way back we stopped at the wonderfully quirky Talisman Café which served delicious food and had the best garden with Asian influences in the plantings and in the carvings.  A spot of tranquillity that matched the beautiful natural surroundings rather than the turbulent industrial history of the area.

For variety, we chose the route beside the Ohinemuri River, through the Karangahake Gorge.  

The path is narrow, and in many places, we needed to walk our bikes.  Absolutely worth it – the Gorge is dramatic, especially with the river running fast and high.  

The area is full of interesting remains of the industrial past when the gold from Waihi was processed in this area.  Victoria Battery is an atmospheric place, with ghosts of its important industrial past when it was considered the largest and most advanced facility to crush quartz in New Zealand.  

These huge tanks contained cyanide which was used in the processing and may be the reason for these modern day signs.

It was most active during the Great Depression when men (and they were all men) were grateful for any work, no matter how hard or dangerous it was.  The working conditions looked atrocious, although the company made good returns for its owners.

The rest of the ride was an uneventful retracing of the route we had followed in the morning, back to Bella at Waihi Station.  A great day’s ride to finish up the Hauraki Rail Trail.

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 10, 8th January: Whangapoua

This was the day our epic adventure turned into a holiday!  We woke early and decided to return to Wainuiototo Beach again.  Low tide was at 6.00 am and if we left it too late, the rocky section would be much more difficult to negotiate. 

The early morning light was enchanting on the marshes as we bowled across the marshlands.   The walk along the beach was, if anything, even lovelier in the morning light than the previous evenings walk.

 The sea enticed us in again, although the surf was less exciting than yesterday.  Such clear blue water to enjoy.  Here is the photographic evidence that Ross went swimming too!

Whangapoua beach is also an outstanding beach, with wonderfully white sand contrasting with the acquamarine seas, and native grasses.

In a day of visiting beautiful beaches we stopped off at the entrance to Whangapoua Village to explore the Opera Point Reserve where we found another glorious beach with white sand, clear water and families with boats and picnics.  Moira had her second swim of the day as she wanted to explore the end of Opera Point and the only way to get there at high tide was to swim.  She was rewarded with a family of oystercatchers.  No photos, because she swam there!

We got back to our campsite for a crunchy salad lunch and a busy afternoon posting blogs.  We had decided to bike across to Matarangi to find something fishy for dinner and we assumed it would also be a nice gentle ride like the one to Whangapoua Beach.  How wrong we were - 2 steep hills later, we arrived, hot and sweaty to Matarangi Beach.  Our 4th gorgeous beach of the day - especially in the long evening light.

The ride home after dinner showed the hills in the same magical evening light, with the layers of steep hills of the Coromandel Peninsula marching away.  We are looking forward to exploring Castle Rock when we get closer in a few days.  It is such a feature on the sky line. 

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 9, 7th January: Coromandel - Whangapoua

An early start was planned and achieved so there would not be too much traffic on the road as we were heading over route 25, the main road.  Even more likely to be busy, as the storm had caused numerous slips between Coromandel and Thames so a lot of the traffic to Thames was going the long way around via Whitianga (i.e. our route).

We had spent several days looking at the steep hills behind Coromandel Town.  Still, it came as a surprise to us, just how steep and long the hill was out of Coromandel Town.  Of course, it afforded marvellous views both to the east and west coasts of the Coromandel Peninsula once we made it to the top.  Lots of walking for Moira, while Ross managed to cycle to the top on his e-bike, albeit with plenty of rest stops in the occasional shady spot.

A swift descent down the other side into Te Rerenga, which has the most colourful school I’ve ever seen and not much else.  The Whangapoua Holiday Park is right on the junction with SH 25, some 7 km from Whangapoua village.  It’s a pleasant green campsite, utilising former Forestry Service cabins as it is sited right next door to the Forestry Service.  After we set up our camp and ate a huge green salad for lunch (we’d been missing fresh veggies up in northern Coromandel), we spent the afternoon catching up on blog postings.  

In the late afternoon we headed off to Whangapoua village across the causeway which used to be a railway line for moving kauri trees.  Our destination was Wainuiototo Beach (New Chums Beach) which is reached, rather romantically, by a river crossing and a 30 minute walk which includes a stretch picking your way amongst the rocks, then through a delightful piece of bush across the headland. 

It was absolutely worth the walk and what a beautiful time of night to visit.  The surf was almost perfect so we enjoyed a great frolic and then a stroll along the beach to the far end, observing dotterels and oystercatchers as we went.

Reversing our journey back to Whangapoua Holiday Park, we found the camp kitchen was a social place as we talked to a number of European family groups about their experiences in NZ.

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 8, 6th January, 2018: Fletchers Bay to Coromandel Town

We made an early start from Fletchers Bay, after saying a fervent thank you to Rangers Judy and James for their hospitality.  The first hill of the day, in what promised to be a challenging ride of 6 big hills, gravel road and who knows what debris on the road.

What we were really interested to see was what damage at occurred at the Port Jackson Campground as a result of the previous day’s king tide, exacerbated by the storm surge and the super moon.  We knew from reports that the seas had washed over the front half of the campground.  It was still a shock to see the damage for ourselves.

The sea had thrown up debris across the previously tidy campsite.  Bollards had been uprooted and redistributed, along with the wreckage of the boat, previously tidily gathered together waiting for the right conditions for a burn-off.

One of the worst areas was right in front of the office, which the sea got rather close to.  

Clean up had begun with staff, volunteers and campers all lending a hand.

As well as the debris strewn by the sea, there were large rocks across many of the campsites.  The image above shows the site where we had camped two nights previously.  It was uncomfortable thinking about the possibility that the sea might have dumped those rocks there while our tent was there.

The previously sandy beach was now a stony beach.  No-one knows how long it may take for the sand to return - if it does.  Not surprisingly, there was no-one in the water.

A last look at Port Jackson which had suffered so in the storm.  Frederick and Ursula, who are the Rangers at the campground, took such good care of the site and the campers.  Some of the campground was still pristine and hosting campers, and I am sure they will work very hard to restore the rest of it to the welcoming, peaceful place it was when we arrived.  

We were also a little apprehensive about what we might find as we headed south to Coromandel Town along the gravel road which mostly hugged the coastline.

The seas were still fierce, boiling white against the foot of the cliffs.  Along much of the coastline, the sea was muddy from the streams.  The sea had undermined the root systems of a number of the pohutakawas which seems likely to cause further damage in the next big winds.

The camp ground at Waiaro was flooded.

But there were also sights to delight us that had nothing to do with the impact of the storm and reminded us of the reason that we cycle.  It is so much easier to see and to stop to closely observe sights such as these nesting shags.

After all the storm damage that was observable from Port Jackson through to Colville, the route after our lunch stop at Colville was uneventful.  Just 3 more large hills and 25 km to ride, before we pulled into Coromandel Town.  Tired after all that we had seen, the hills and the 60 km we had ridden, we enjoyed a marvellous dinner at the Pepper Tree restaurant and went thankfully to bed.

Sitting out the storm : Day 7, 5th January 2018: Port Jackson/Fletchers Bay

After a challenging night with heavy rain and lashing winds that made it impossible to keep everything dry in our small tent, we woke to hear the thundering of the sea.  About 2.00 am the rain stopped, but the wind continued as strong as ever, caused huge swells.  We decided to get up at 5.30 am as the rain had stopped and the wind was drying out the tent to make it easier to pack up, with the plan of riding out from Port Jackson to Colville during the short period with no rain.

Even eating breakfast was challenging as the wind was so strong that the kitchen shelter didn’t provide a great deal of protection from the wind.  As we were packing up the DOC Ranger came to speak to us and recommended that we should not ride out from Port Jackson as the wind was too strong and there was a risk we would be blown off the road.  As his request was close to a plea, I gave in at that point to Ross’ wish to stay put.  The Ranger offered us transport to a DOC bunk house a kilometre or two down the road and some emergency food supplies which made us feel a whole lot better.

While we waited for the transport, we watched the waves rolling in mesmerised by the power of the ocean.  The tide was still 90 minutes from full and the waves were already breaking at the beach edge with considerable force.  The pieces of the shipwreck from out in the bay were washing up and it was clear that the collection of smashed boat pieces that had been collected at the cliff edge were going to be distributed around the bay by the sea.

Frederick came to give us a lift to the shelter and also offered transportation out to Colville from James and Judy (Rangers at Fletchers Bay) who were heading out for the day.  The day was definitely looking up.  After coffee  at the DOC bunkhouse, we walked up the road to the hilltop carpark and walked back along the Murawai Ridge Walkway towards Port Jackson.  The seas were huge, boiling white at the foot of all the cliffs.  The wind was fierce, fortunately blowing us towards the cliff, and causing us to miss many steps.  Reluctantly I had to admit that as the wind was frequently blowing us off balance, it would not have been safe to ride out in those conditions.   

Ranger Heather arrived back at the DOC bunkhouse to tell us that there was a change of plan because the road to Colville was closed, and the rangers were needed at both Port Jackson and Fletchers Bay to deal with the conditions there. She showed us pictures of the devastation caused by the king tide at 11.00 am, which had been exacerbated by the super moon and the storm surge.   The front part of the campsite was badly damaged, with the walkway destroyed, bollards swept away, the camp kitchen swamped and water nearly up to the office.  One of the highest tides ever.

The change of plan included an offer of a night at the DOC backpackers at Fletchers Bay for no extra charge.  The Backpackers gave us warm, dry shelter, hot showers, and some ability to dry things out.  A great offer, given that there were few other alternatives with the road closed. Rangers James and Judy from the DOC Campground at Fletchers Bay would pass by shortly to pick us up and take us over there.

We spent the afternoon quietly and gratefully at Fletchers Bay, chatting to the two  families who were fellow guests at the backpackers, enjoying a warm shower, charging all devices, writing up our trip blog, and drying out a little.  A much better prospect for a good nights sleep and some restorative rest after the challenging previous night in the little tent. 

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 6, 4th January: Port Jackson

Thursday 4^th January, Day 6: Port Jackson – Murawai clifftop walk and sitting out the storm

We woke to a grey sky and some wind.  The forecast which we had been constantly monitoring was ominous.  Heavy rain, perhaps as much as 50 mm, and strong winds were expected from about mid-day.  Having decided the previous day to sit it out, it was just a matter of waiting for the storm to arrive and hoping that it would not be as bad as the forecast.  We battened down the hatches, put everything under cover, erected the ground sheet to provide extra shelter and hoped for the best.  

Nature still provided us with interesting sights, such as this pair of oystercatchers, both standing on one leg.  No doubt, they too, knew that the storm was brewing.  

A number of the campers went swimming, as it was still comfortably warm, despite the grey skies.  

 We spent a lot of the morning sitting about in the kitchen shelter, which was fortunately close to our tent site, and talking to other campers.  We decided to shift the tent further up the hill in the hope of finding a bit more shelter from the wind and the rain. 

After mooching about waiting for the storm to arrive, we decided that maybe we had time to walk the Murawai Track along the beach and up the ridge.  Soon after we set out, the storm arrived and Ross turned back.  Moira, as is her wont, continued on, regardless of the weather and got rather wet and cold.  The views were still wonderful, despite the weather.

When the storm arrived, it was clear that the forecast matched the reality.  The rain was heavy and the wind was strong.  We retreated to our tent to watch early episodes of Grand Designs, then back to the kitchen to make and eat an early dinner.  Then a retreat once again to our tent to try to keep everything away from the walls so that it would stay dry.  The bikes and our gear trolley were over by the kitchen shelter, where they were reasonably sheltered.  Even so, it was not possible to stay completely dry in the conditions and the night was one of the most challenging we have ever spent in a tent.

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 5, 3rd January 2018: Port Jackson

Wednesday 3^rd January, Day 5: Port Jackson – bike to Fletchers Bay to walk the Coastal Walkway to Stony Bay

 We woke to a beautiful sunny day at Port Jackson, but also to ominous news about a storm brewing for the next day.  After breakfast, we took some time to assess our options for handling the storm.  In the glorious sunshine, it was easy to believe that the storm warning might be stronger than the actuality proved to be, and that the storm might pass us by.  After checking out other options for routes and transport we decided to sit it out in Port Jackson and hope the storm was not too bad, and didn’t last too long.

We rode over to Fletchers Bay to do the famous Coromandel Coastal Walkway which had been our original reason for travelling to the very north of the Coromandel Peninsula.  It’s only 7km from Port Jackson, but it’s some hill in between!  The view from the top past Fletchers Bay was stunning - don’t you just love that pointy rock that looks like a hungry chick waiting to be fed.  

We were also interested to see how much damage the fire at Fletchers Bay had caused.  A young drunkard had directed fireworks straight at the dry grass on New Years Eve.  Fortunately, the wind took the fire away from the camp towards the headland, as there were 300 campers that night (would have been us, except for the accident of our wheel trouble).  Later on we learnt that the drunkard had run away in his car, leaving his wife and children behind at the campsite.  Which was a good thing as there were people who were ready to lynch him.  There was enough going on with volunteer fire-fighters arriving from Colville to control the blaze throughout the night and then helicopters with monsoon buckets joining them at first light.  The perpetrator was identified and we were told will be charged with arson, and the cost of fighting the fire, and the damage recouped  - some $100,000 seems likely.

The Coastal Walkway quickly climbed past the burnt headland and over farmland.  Shortly the track entered the bush, where the cool was very welcome.  The views of the Coromandel coastline and the nearby islands were stunning, and reminded us a little of Halong Bay in Vietnam because of the steepness of the rocks and the lush vegetation covering them.

With our late start due to exploring options for dealing with the storm, we didn’t have enough time to walk all the way from Fletchers Bay to Stony Bay and back, so we settled for walking to the Lookout Point, which took 2 hours, and returning. On the way back, we explored the wonderful rock formations at Poley Bay.

Riding back over the hill to Port Jackson, gave us a splendid view of the bay at Port Jackson and the wide expanse of sandy beach.  Another great Coromandel day.

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 4, 2nd January: Coromandel - Port Jackson

Tuesday 2^nd January, Day 4: Coromandel – Port Jackson take #2– 53 km

The day began early at 6.30 am so that we could get packed before the rain which was threatened for 8.00 am.  We needed to return the rental so took a stroll downtown and the chance for our last real coffee for several days, so that we rode out of town just after 9.00 am.

The run through to Colville seemed much easier than 2 days ago, although I still got off for the steep stretch 50 m before the top of the third hill.  Lovely coastal scenery, seeing it at high tide this time, so it looked more attractive.

Northern Coromandel had a power cut that was affecting Colville when we passed through so we settled for plunger coffee at the Café while Ross topped up his e-bike battery. Colville Bay looked like low tide, with wonderful patterns etched on the sand.  5 km later, and it’s back to gravel road which made Ross very cautious about his new wheel axle and check it regularly every km or so.  Even so, we made steady progress.  About 12.30 it rained quite heavily for just long enough for us to put coats on and then get much too warm.

This road is known for the spectacular coastal pohutakawas so we stopped several times to photograph their wonderful shapes.  Shortly after mid-day an enforced stop was required so that Ross could mend a puncture.

The stop made us think about lunch, so we found the next spot with good shade to eat our sandwiches.  Somehow we cycled right on by the place where we sat and waited for Grant from the AA to pick us up without recognising it.  We knew when we were in new territory that we had not traversed before.  Fantail Reserve was a delight with a campsite in a narrow ravine running up the hillside and wonderful tall pohutakawas on the beach.  

From Fantail Reserve the road begins to climb and climb and climb.  I was off at least 3 times when the road was too steep with a long steady incline towards the top of at least 1 km in very hot sunshine.  We were rewarded by a great view down to Port Jackson and a simple run down hill to the campsite.  I too, had a slow puncture, but it was a slow one, so Ross staved off fixing it by pumping the tyre a couple of times.  It was only 7 km from Fantail Bay to Port Jackson, but what a challenging 7 km!

Frederick, the helpful Ranger at Port Jackson, allowed us to swap the nights we had booked at Fletchers Bay for nights at Port Jackson.  He showed us to a splendid beach front campsite.  Even Ross was tempted into the water for a swim.  Other campers were very friendly and dropped by for a chat. There was a small camp kitchen with power sockets where we could charge the e-bike battery and our phones.  It was a delight to get into bed with the bay before us and the sound of waves rolling in – surely one of the worlds best campsites ever.

Cycling in Coromandel: Day 3, 1st January 2018: Coromandel Town

Monday 1^st January, Day 3: Coromandel

As Ross had a long driving day ahead of him, we got up early and went to town together to pick up the rental car, walk a bit of the Kauri Track, and have a coffee before Ross set off to drive to Hamiilton for lunch with brother David, as John was only available to do the welding after 3.30.

I wandered back to the campground, checking out the shops, which on closer inspection sold many arts and crafts from Coromandel craftspeople. Some were high quality, others so so.  After lunch, I got very hot in the steamy little tent, so set out to explore a bit more of the area surrounding Coromandel.

I biked out of town on Wharf Road, taking a closer look at the old wharf.  Then followed the road to Myuna Bay which swooped up and down steeply, causing me to push the bike two or three times up the steepest bits. Dramatic views back towards Coromandel and northwards up the Peninsula, as well as across the Hauraki Gulf.  In Myuna Bay, the tide was way out, so I lay and dozed under a shady tree until there was enough water in the bay to make swimming appealing.  The road was just as daunting on the way back, although I had more attention for the amazing views and architecture.

By the time I was passing through town the sky was looming very black so I stopped off for a restorative coffee and to do some food shopping, so that I could have dinner ready by the time Ross returned from Hamilton.